Rifle scope reticle choice ...

[rookhawk]

This is the Leica proprietary calculator, but it may end up being close or correct for you.

Plug in your load details. Set your unit of measurement. Set your zero range. Have it calculate.

Then go to the tab for their ballistic reticles. There is one similar to your Christmas tree. Plug in variables until you find a zoom distance that creates subtension ranges that seem somewhat easy for you to remember. (e.g. 150-200-250-325-etc)

You'll then have to go to the range and test at that zoom range to see if it works....it won't. You'll then fidget with your scope with slightly more or less zoom than it says on the dial and it will eventually work. Then you put a piece of tape on your scope and use a pen for a witness mark. For the rest of your days, you'll be constantly looking at that zoom dial making damn sure it didn't move whatsoever to a different magnification, otherwise your subtensions will all be off.

Leica - Ballistic Tool​

Leica - Ballistic Tool
https://ballistictool.leica-camera.com

 

[shootist~]

Set up target at any standard distance. 100 or multiples thereof. One target only. (200 yards would show better separation. )

Shoot 3 shot groups, using each full hash mark - OR each dot. (1st group using the crosshair). Use maximum power since it's 2nd focal plane.

Measure the vertical distance the group moves up for Each full hash (or Dot).
Convert to MOA. Use any balistic software with your bullet's Ballistic Coefficient and MV to create a ballistic chart using 10 yard increments. (JBM Ballistics is a free online example). Back into what your bullet does matching up the expected MOA change for each full Dot or Hashmark.

I'm gonna guess the dots represent 2 MOA and the 1st Hash is half of that. (IF correct the 2nd full hashmark would then be 3 MOA, 2nd dot 4 MOA, etc.)

OR they might be based on Mils, but doubtful.

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Members, as usual I am not disappointed with the great feedback I am receiving from every member here participated in this discussion, thank you kindly for every member`s input /opinion/suggestion...it is MUCH, appreciated ...

Ridge Runner , I think you hit the nail on the head...if I approach this method you are describing and using the bow sights with pins for each distance this method will be the answer to my question for sure..

As pointed out previously when I commence with this M96 Karl Gustav 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser load developments , I first wanted a good accurate load that will work for me every time to give me confidence in my loads and rifle ...

I now have a accurate load...(step 1) completed
I now have to fit a rifle scope to ensure an accurate shot at game animals and gongs.
I now need to match the rifle with the scope I understand the use of. Understanding the Christmas tree recital and use it accurately is the next step.
I have the Weaver Grand Slam 4-16x44

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Great answers to a question and great suggestions as well practical methods ....
I need to ask: I am using the same bullet weight ELD-X 143gn bullet and S365 propellant . Likely this load /bullet will be a good enough product to hunt up to Blue Wildebeest. So I have no reason to change to other bullet weights and Brands??

 

[Gert Odendaal]

Thank you for your opinion..I believe shot placement still compliments a good quality bullet

 

[Choupique]

Just zero the rifle to whatever it says on the box of ammo, convert the drops to MOA or MIL (whatever the scope is) and figure out the correct holds based off the reticles' dimensions. That'll get you banging steel at 500 yards.

The subtensions themselves will work out to some odd ranges, but that's just what it is. If the 2nd intersection works out to 328.4 yards or something weird like that, just hold a hair low for 280 yards or a hair high for 350. You get the idea.

This is why using straight hold over for long range isn't preferable and requires a really complex christmas tree once the ranges get long. You've got to figure the elevation part out, and then figure out the wind hold on top of that, and your aim point becomes some spot in space between crossbars on the reticle. So, you're aiming for a spot on an animal (which doesn't have a bullseye) with a point on the reticle that doesn't exist because it's floating off to the left of vertical and in between two crossbars.

 

[Luminous Ham]

Strelok can produce this. You enter bullet details and choose scope in app. And you can see it at different magnifications. The red lines are wind.
You might need to load Strelok 'sideways' due to restrictions, but it works fine.

 

[Luger00]

Best hunting reticles on scopes I’d actually use are SHR Mil, P3L, and mil quad.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Good day members. I have currently the need to choose between `n Duplex reticle with fine cross hairs and a Christmas tree reticle for my 6.5x55 Swedish Mauser rifle .
I do have a rifle scope with a duplex reticle currently on the rifle....Although I am feeling comfortable using this 5-25 x 50 scope I want to be hunting /shooting out to 200, 300, 400 and 500 meters .

Question: The Weaver Grand Slam scope 4-16x44 has the Christmas reticle ,,,how do I determine the exact distances using f/s velocities to be accurate at 100m currently moving up to 300 meters at least using the Christmas reticle distance indicator lines ????

Christmas Tree Reticle​

This type of reticle looks just like the shape of tree saved for the festive season.

The hash marks get relatively longer with each marking down on the 6 o'clock cross hair. This is to compensate for wind drift as your bullet strike and velocity is greatly affected at long range distances.

While there are some of these ballistic or BDC style reticles available in hunting rifle scopes, it's more commonly found in the hunting/tactical hybrids, tactical, mil-dot, and military rifle scopes. I have a accurate load to work with now I need to use this load out to different distances ...this is at 100 meters...View attachment 678160

@Gert Odendaal
Depend on the use but personally I like to keep it simple
All my scopes are medium cross hairs with finer centre. Christmas tree reticles are to busy for this simple old fart. I just sight in for maximum point blank range.
I do have a scope with a duplex reticle and BDC that is great out to 600 BUT AND There's A BIG BUT being a second focal plane scope the makes are only good at max power (10x). You have to know the exact speed of your load and sight in range. Once done you use the ballistic calculator to work out the hash marks and then shoot at those distances.
Mine is a meopta BDC so I use the online meopta calculator and it is within an inch of the mark out to 500 when I checked it at the range.
Just the thoughts of an old fart that likes to keep it simple
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Thank you kindly the feedback is much appreciated..I do not use a FFP or any long range rifles scope ...it is a standard Weaver Grand Slam 4-16x44 with this christmas tree recital.. I want to use this rifle with this scope out to 500 meters as shooting gongs as well as hunting Spring buck in the Kalahari Namibia ...I just need to figure out how to get the scope zeroed at 100 meters so the rest of the christmas tree lines line up on every other distance..View attachment 678183

@Gert Odendaal
As @Hogpatrol said sight in for 100 set at desired power and shoot target to see where the various marks hit and work from there.
Bob
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Usually, at a given power magnification the subtensions make some sort of logical sense. So yes, you actually have a fixed power scope in your hands. There are calculators online that can figure out that at 8.75x and 100 yard zero the subsequent crosshairs might mean 150-200-250-300 or whatnot.

It will work eventually with much frustration. After that, you'll bash it against a rock and get a German #4 reticle, figure out the MPBR of your rifle, and just go hunting at all reasonable distances.

@rookhawk
My sons 308 has what they pass as a mil dot reticle in his scope (3-9x40). All I did was get the bore collimator and work out the dot spacing at 9 power. Worked out it was 4" between the big dots and 2" on the small dots. Sighted for 200 and using the ballistic calculator was easy to work the dot out to the various ranges.
We we doing some practice with plastic pop bottles set at 400. I told him what dot to hold and first shot he missed. After the 3rd shot he got it and told me my maths was shit he needed a different mark. I asked him what power he was on and he told me 5 why.
When he set it on 9 power using my marks he was hitting the bottles at 400 with boring regularity.
Bob

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

@Ridge Runner
You just confused the living be Jesus out of me.
You totally lost me after next step.
Far to much for my feeble brain to comprehend.
Bob

 

[Ridge Runner]

@Ridge Runner
You just confused the living be Jesus out of me.
You totally lost me after next step.
Far to much for my feeble brain to comprehend.
Bob

Understandably. Sounds harder and confusing by the directions. Easy once illustrated using diagrams and/or seen being done. It takes longer to write out and read the instructions than actually doing it.

Using the short cut makes it a bit easier and quicker.

Once you get the mil dots set using the scope's magnification the scope can be used as a range finder.

 

[Bob Nelson 35Whelen]

Great answers to a question and great suggestions as well practical methods ....
I need to ask: I am using the same bullet weight ELD-X 143gn bullet and S365 propellant . Likely this load /bullet will be a good enough product to hunt up to Blue Wildebeest. So I have no reason to change to other bullet weights and Brands??

@Gert Odendaal
Another solution that would save a lot of brain strain and stress is sell the Weaver and buy a mid range Leupold with a CDS turret and have it engraved with your load.
Less hassle, less stress and less brain power.
Bob